People often state that their skin is ‘dry’, describing it as feeling tight and uncomfortable, complaining that it is flaky, and saying that it looks matte and lifeless.
However, despite the fact that a lot of people believe their skin to be dry, true dry skin (as defined as a skin ‘type’) is far less common than is generally believed, and it is more correctly called Lipid Dry skin because it refers to skin that is lacking in oils (lipids). More often those complaining that their skin is dry actually have dehydrated skin, that is it lacks water not oils.
True lipid dry skins are often related to conditions such as eczema where the body’s mechanism for producing oils in the skin is compromised and as a result the skin is crusty and flaky.
What is the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?
Our skin produces two types of oils (lipids)
1) Sebum, which is produced by the sebaceous glands attached to follicles in the skin, is the most commonly known, due to its link to acne and oily skin. This also forms an integral part of the skin’s chemical barrier function, helping to maintain its pH and protecting the skin from harmful bacteria
2) Epidermal lipids, which are produced within cells lower down in the epidermis. These less well known lipids, including ceramides, fill the spaces between the epidermal skin cells, helping to cement the cells together. So, similar to bricks (cells) and mortar (epidermal lipids) creating a wall, they form a resilient physical barrier which helps to maintain water levels within the skin, preventing excess water escaping.
A true lipid dry skin is lacking in sebum and epidermal lipids. Therefore their natural barrier function (both chemical and physical) is compromised and not as resilient as oilier skins.
What are the causes of lipid dry and dehydrated skins?
Lipid dry skins:
This is a primary skin ‘type’ and the causal factors are largely intrinsic:
- Genetics – some people have a predisposition to disorders affecting oil production within the skin
- Hormonal fluctuations – particularly in women, changes during menstrual cycle, pregnancy and after the menopause, but also thyroid irregularities
- Normal ageing process– the production of sebum, the oil produced within the follicles of the skin, naturally decreases as we age
But some factors are related to lifestyle changes:
- Dietary restrictions – in particular following a low fat diet can mean that your body doesn’t get enough essential fatty acids like Omega 3 to make the lipids
- Medications – some prescribed medications can also interfere with lipid production and cause the skin to become dry.
Dehydrated Skins:
Dehydrated skin is not a type of skin, rather it is an acquired condition. The skin become vulnerable to dehydration when the amount of available water is insufficient for its needs, either
1) because the actual of water taken into the body is poor or reduced,
Or
2) because too much is lost through the skin’s surface because the natural barrier function has become compromised and fails to retain water within it (a process known as Transepidermal Water Loss – TEWL).
The reasons for barrier function failure are numerous, but common culprits are:
- inappropriate skin products which strip the skin of its natural lipids,
- air pollution,
- central heating,
- alcohol,
- smoking
‘Dry’ or ‘Dehydrated’, does it matter?
While many of the symptoms of dry and dehydrated skin are similar, it is important to determine the primary cause for the dryness, so that any treatment is successful.
How can we determine the cause?
A diagnostic consultation and skin analysis can help to identify if your problems are related to a lack of water or lipids. Using a diagnostic skin scanner device we can determine if lipids are present in the skin and by carrying out an in-depth consultation can help pinpoint the source of any concerns.
As we pointed out previously, most ‘dry’ skin is actually dehydration which is a condition that can easily be corrected through the use of appropriate home care products and in-studio treatments to boost ceramide production and restore the skin’s natural barrier function.
Where there does appear to be a lack of lipids, treatment plans can be devised to supplement the skin’s own oils with homecare products that contain the appropriate essential lipids, and gentle in-studio resurfacing treatments, so that the vitality and lustre of the skin’s surface is restored.
Treating dry or dehydrated skin
The First Step:
An initial in-depth consultation and skin health assessment will help determine whether your skin is dehydrated or truly dry. It will allow us to highlight potential causes so that they can be avoided, and to design a treatment and management plan that will allow your skin to reach optimum health.
In Clinic Treatments
The actual treatment options will depend on your unique skin circumstances and the severity of the issues but can include the following
Corrective facials: using products with active ingredients and modalities to encourage the circulatory and lymphatic systems, corrective aesthetic facials help to hydrate the skin reducing the appearance of lines, tighten and brighten the complexion.
Peels – Either chemical or metabolic. They work by initiating the skin’s natural healing response, supporting the production of the skin’s natural moisturising factors as well as helping to increase production of collagen and elastin. The choice of peel will depend on your unique skin condition and personal preferences.
LED therapy – Red light has a healing and cellular renewal effect. (Link to LED facial page)
Microneedling and mesotherapy– can be extremely effective at strengthening the skin by increasing collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It helps increase hydration by enabling the absorption of actives like hyaluronic acid (Link to Microneedling page)
Please note it can often be beneficial to combine treatment therapies and bespoke packages attract significant discounts and savings.
Homecare – a suitable homecare regime will be devised for you to follow in between treatments to support the in-clinic therapies. This will be discussed during your initial investigative consultation.