Ageing is a natural process and whilst almost all cells in our body are designed to be replaced, the processes of cell maintenance and renewal do gradually slow as we get older.
- Prematurely aged skin refers to skin that appears older than our actual chronological age would suggest.
- We can influence the rate at which this happens
So premature ageing refers to an accelerated ageing process, where our cells have aged faster than programmed to naturally do so due to the effect of external factors. It therefore has the characteristics of more mature skin at an earlier biological age.
Characteristics of mature and prematurely aged skin
There are a number of factors that influence how mature a skin looks:
- Appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Loss of volume
- Loss of firmness and elasticity
- Uneven skin tone
- Hyperpigmentation – age spots
- Appearance of thread veins and vascular blemishes
- Poor hydration and dryness
- Dullness – lack of radiance
By understanding what causes the skin to age, you will be better able to help it age more slowly.
What causes the skin to age?
There are many factors that cause us to age, however it is important to understand that there are two different types of ageing, Intrinsic and Extrinsic ageing.
- Intrinsic ageing
This is the natural ageing process. We have no control over the rate at which this happens as it is determined by our genes or DNA. This natural intrinsic ageing starts in our mid-20s and is the response to a reduction in the rate of cellular renewal and new collagen production.
While our skin is constantly undergoing cellular renewal, the efficiency and efficacy of the processes involved gradually slow down as we age and old collagen is increasingly broken down faster than new collagen is produced to replace it. Under the normal ageing process this is a gradual process and the effects on the skin surface takes decades to become visible.
- Extrinsic ageing
This refers to the influence of external environmental and lifestyle factors that contribute to and accelerate the natural ageing process and cause premature ageing.- UV Radiation
- Smoking
- Poor Diet
- Alcohol
- Sleep issues
- Stress
- Crash dieting
- Inappropriate skin care products
- Inappropriate skincare treatments
These effects of these factors can all be controlled and reduced by adopting healthy lifestyle habits, helping to halt premature ageing and prevent further damage.
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation and exposure to sunlight is the main cause of oxidative stress from free radicals which damages cells accelerating ageing. The result is known as photoaging, and research shows that it is responsible for 90% of visible changes to your skin. It is the primary cause of accelerated collagen and elastin breakdown and also affects the pigment producing cells (melanocytes) causing pigmentation problems like age spots.
Sun exposure can permanently damage skin cells, increasing the risk of skin cancer.
Smoking: The toxins in nicotine alter the cells in your body, breaking down the collagen and elastic fibres in your skin, leading to sagging, wrinkles. Also, carbon monoxide in smoke restricts the amount of oxygen and nutrients available to the cells for cellular maintenance and renewal. Smoking is also known to deplete levels of Vitamin C in the skin. This affects both the skin’s structural integrity, because the vitamin is essential for collagen production, and its uniformity in tone as Vitamin C reduces the ability of the melanocytes to produce pigment.
Poor diet: While studies have shown that diets high in sugar or refined carbohydrates may cause premature ageing by allowing the processes of glycation to damage the collagen fibres. However, diets with plenty of fruits and vegetables provide antioxidants to help reduce the effects of free radicals.
Alcohol: Alcohol has diuretic properties and excess consumption can lead to dehydration. Since the enzymes that facilitate cellular maintenance and renewal processes require moisture to work effectively, chronic dehydration will damage your skin over time, leading to signs of premature ageing.
Poor sleep: Studies show that low quality (or not enough) sleep makes your cells age faster as most cellular renewal and maintenance processes occur during the night-time resting period.
Stress: When you’re stressed, your brain pumps out cortisol, a stress hormone. Cortisol blocks two substances that keep your skin looking plump and vibrant: hyaluronan synthase (an enzyme involved in the production of Hyaluronic Acid vital for volume) and collagen.
Crash dieting: Research has shown that crash dieting can cause the rapid loss of fat from the face leading to skin sagging and wrinkles.
Inappropriate skin care products: The inappropriate use of skincare products containing active ingredients like retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids or harsh cleansing products can disrupt the skin’s natural barrier function causing inflammation and lead to premature ageing of the skin.
Inappropriate skincare treatments: Every skin is different and it is important to choose skincare treatments that will benefit your skin. Treatments to combat the signs of premature skin ageing can be very effective, but it is important ensure that they are appropriate to your unique circumstances, for example radio frequency is an established modality to treat lines and wrinkles, but used inappropriately on the wrong skin can actually exacerbate the problem by damaging fat pads on the face that help provide volume.
Treating mature and prematurely aged skin
The aim is to address the factors that may be accelerating premature ageing and put in place a holistic plan to slow down and reverse the signs of ageing in the skin.
The First Step:
An initial in-depth consultation and skin health assessment is important to determine potential triggers and design a treatment and management plan suitable for your unique circumstances.
In Clinic Treatments
The actual treatment options will depend on your unique skin circumstances and the severity of the issues but can include the following
Corrective facials: using products with active ingredients and modalities to encourage the circulatory and lymphatic systems, corrective aesthetic facials help to hydrate the skin reducing the appearance of lines, tighten and brighten the complexion.
Peels – Either chemical or metabolic. They work by initiating the skin’s natural healing response, supporting the extracellular matrix and helping to increase production of collagen and elastin. The choice of peel will depend on the desired result and your unique skin condition and personal preferences.
LED therapy – Red light has a healing and cellular renewal effect.
Microneedling and mesotherapy– can be extremely effective at strengthening the skin by increasing collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps by strengthening the blood vessels, reducing the appearance of ‘broken capillaries’ and breaking down pigmentation marks and helping to regularise pigment production.
Regenerative treatments: Regenerative treatments use combinations of microcurrent, radio frequency and/or ultrasound, help to restore a more youthful appearance by tightening the skin, encouraging the production of collagen, stimulating muscles to lift and tone them, and encouraging lymphatic drainage.
Please note it can often be beneficial to combine treatment therapies and bespoke packages attract significant discounts and savings.
Homecare – a suitable homecare regime will be devised for you to follow in between treatments to support the in-clinic therapies. This will be discussed during your initial investigative consultation.
